Closer to Bend than Smith Rock, this quiet gem is located near the beautiful Tumalo Falls, and it is home to high-quality multi-pitch, sport and trad routes. The rock is andesite which lends itself to technical slab climbing and clean vertical cracks. There is no guidebook to this crag, so those who venture up to this formation must either bribe a local for beta, or commit to a line of bolts or a crack-system on sight.
At Cougar, you’ll find a high concentration of 5.9 and 5.10 climbs from one to three pitches. The classic Cougar Buttress is a four pitch 5.9 trad climb with bolted anchors and a pleasant walk-off. Edge of Light is an excellent two-pitch 5.10 trad route with a rappel descent. The base area has dozens of single-pitch sport routes that are well-bolted and range from intermediate to advanced in difficulty.
Climbers who are Smith veterans come here looking for a local alternative. Set in a thick green forested canyon, the dark, blocky rock juts out from the hillside about 20 minutes of steep hiking away from the dirt road. The climbing style and setting, and the lack of many climbers frequenting the area makes it a great change of pace on a crowded weekend in Central Oregon. Come get an introduction to this area with one of our local experts.