Closer to Bend than Smith Rock, this quiet gem is located near the beautiful Tumalo Falls, and it is home to high-quality multi-pitch, sport and trad routes. The rock is andesite which lends itself to technical slab climbing and clean vertical cracks. There is no guidebook to this crag, so those who venture up to this formation must get local beta, or commit to a line of bolts or a crack-system on sight.
At Cougar, you’ll find a high concentration of 5.9 and 5.10 climbs from one to three pitches. The classic Cougar Buttress is a four pitch 5.9 trad climb with bolted anchors and a pleasant walk-off. Edge of Light is an excellent two-pitch 5.10 trad route with a rappel descent. The base area has dozens of single-pitch sport routes that are well-bolted and range from intermediate to advanced in difficulty.
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